GALO: Your designs have been worn by many celebrities. Do you know who the first celebrity was to wear your designs?

PP: Wow, you’re stretching my memory! Now I remember. Many years ago, Nicolette Sheridan of Knots Landing, then Desperate Housewives fame, was the first celebrity to purchase and wear my designs. Lisa Rinna and Harry Hamlin were the first high-profile couple to purchase and wear my custom platinum bridal rings and other jewelry and this was featured in InStyle Weddings. Tori Spelling attended their wedding and then came to me to design her own engagement ring when she tied the knot with Charlie Shanian. I think Jennifer Love Hewitt was the first actress to don my designs for a major red carpet event. For a Golden Globes appearance, she wore a platinum and diamond bracelet that I designed. Lately, it’s been hard for me to keep up, but I couldn’t be more ecstatic to hear about any discerning jewelry lover wearing my pieces.

GALO: Why work with platinum instead of gold or other metals?

PP: My favorite subject! Platinum is not just for the red carpet. It is pure, durable, and the ideal metal for heirloom-quality jewelry. I recommend it for high-wear items such as bridal and right-hand rings, and certain diamond and precious gemstone earrings, necklaces, and bracelets. Platinum’s natural white color makes diamonds look incredibly white and it doesn’t require re-plating every few years like white gold, and it is significantly stronger and whiter than palladium, which is softer and less durable. In addition, platinum is 60 percent denser than 14-karat gold and more substantial – you can actually feel the difference. Platinum does not wear away like gold, making it perfect to secure gems for generations. Unlike white gold, which often causes allergic reactions, platinum is hypoallergenic. Yes, there are many reasons why platinum is the most treasured of all metals!

Nevertheless, not all platinum is created equally. When a piece is stamped PLAT 950 or Pt 950, it is made from a metal alloy that contains 95 percent platinum. In turn, PLAT 900 contains only 90 percent platinum. However, commercially available platinum often contains low-grade fillers that may compromise the quality of the platinum. I mix my own proprietary PLAT 950 alloy, which I call PLATIMO™, so that I control the blend of high-quality metals. Thereby, I ensure that my platinum pieces are the brightest and the whitest on the market.

Another caveat to platinum is that it is very difficult to work with the metal. Platinum melts at 3,222 degrees Fahrenheit, while gold melts at a mere 1,948 degrees Fahrenheit. Also, the tools for platinumsmithing must be much harder than those for goldsmithing. Therefore, we make our own tools in our workshop. Nevertheless, platinum’s benefits far outweigh its challenges.

All that said, I do work in white, yellow and pink gold for certain jewelry. Because platinum is so dense, it can be too heavy for large statement earrings or necklaces and significant bracelets. Since these pieces aren’t worn every day, 18-karat white gold, as well as yellow or pink gold, is absolutely fine and can look fantastic with colored gemstones. I find the color of pink (rose) gold especially exciting, and will continue to design in this unique metal, too. Finally, I enjoy mixing metals as well, especially when I use fancy colored diamonds.

GALO: What is designing a piece of your jewelry like?

PP: For custom designs, the process is highly collaborative. I listen to my client and conceptualize a variety of design ideas. Then, I sketch a few ideas, and show them to my client. They choose a design, which may be further refined based upon their input. Sometimes we will mix design elements from several concepts. Once this is finalized, I work with one of my CAD experts to turn the sketch into a 3-D model on the computer, then a wax model. The client is welcome to see and comment on these models as well. Some people are very hands on and enjoy becoming a part of the process, while others leave it to us. Finally, I oversee the handcrafting of the jewelry by my artisans. One of my gemologists or I carefully select every gem by hand. Each piece passes through the hands of four or five of our master craftsmen who are experts in each step of the jewelry-making process such as hand sculpting of the metal, utilizing lasers, engraving, filigree, diamond or gemstone setting, polishing and buffing, etc.

For my collections, I gather inspiration from various sources – from old Art Deco and Edwardian designs to modern architecture and nature — then begin sketching design ideas. Second, I work with my CAD experts to begin the process of turning the ideas into fine jewelry.

GALO: Is there a favorite piece you’ve created?

PP: I have many favorites, but recently I was thrilled to please a very particular “jewelrista” client who was looking to create an extraordinary, one-of-a-kind platinum engagement ring. Before she found us, she had gone to three other jewelry designers to create the piece, but she said she disliked all of their design attempts. When a friend finally referred her to us, the pressure was on. We listened to her to truly understand the look she desired. She seemed to like my sketches and design ideas, but wanted to see the wax model before she would agree to have the ring made by us. To our delight, she loved the model – and the final masterpiece ring. Pleasing such a discriminating jewelry connoisseur was so rewarding.    

Another recent favorite of mine is a spider diamond cuff bracelet I custom-designed for a well-known jewelry collector client. She wanted a unique and striking piece that suited her bold personality and chic look. The bracelet turned out to be a truly stunning accoutrement that gets her compliments every time she wears it. This makes me proud.

Lastly, in 2011 I created pavè diamond flame earrings with articulated movement. They hit the red carpet on First Blood star Carrie Preston and it was electrifying to see the earrings, paired with our platinum and morganite cocktail ring, create a breathtaking look on the celebrity.

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